This message has been edited. Last edited by: Kent Stokesberry,

Why did the dog fail to mark?

Young or old there is a multitude of reason. Many times the trainer set up a bad mark.

Tim

My understanding is to not let the dog fail. Example: If you constantly have a mark at 100 ft. and the dog trains at that distance for a long period of time. The dog who wants to be succcessful will want to go to that same spot to achieve success. Move that mark out 10 more feet and a dog might not pick up that mark. Now if you put that mark at 101 ft it probably would pick up the mark. And so on. I guess what i am trying to say is take it slowand achieve success?

Hey i know i am not the most experienced here but i will learn. Please correct me if im wrong.

John - you are correct - it is important to vary the distances of your marks....See it all the time with inexperienced dogs that continually hunt at about the 30 yd range...they have had too many hand thrown marks....My friend's was this way when we started training this spring..he had only ever had hand thrown marks so he was used to hunting at a specified range...After about 3 weeks of marks of varying lengths (starting @ 50 yds), using en route throws, etc, we got him going 150 yds and more with confidence and no hunting short..Soon we will see if his training has paid off in a JH test....

Juli

When I get down to serious training on my dogs, I do a lot of drill work. One in particular that I like and was shown to me by the Lowenthals years ago, I call a walk around. It's about 5 marks, the first is short on a 90 degree back. If the dog is successful, the thrower walks to the location of that fall and will throw the next bumper out flat. If dog is successful, then the thrower walks out to that fall, and tosses a forward mark at about 45 degrees. Again if successfull thrower proceeds to that are of fall, and tosses out a 45 degree back throw. The 5th mark is thrown from that area of the fall on a 45 or 90 degree back throw. If the dog fails any of the marks, the thrower does not leave that station until the dog succeeds.

After you've run all the dogs using this test, you can change your location, reverse direction of throws, and do the same thing over again. And you can work close in for young inexperienced dogs and move further out for more experienced dogs.

It teaches them to gain accuracy in marking and to learn to carry out on distance, and that not every mark will fall in the same position relative to the thrower.

Just my two cents worth.

Kathy Miller

I believe they call that walking singles. I only use them like happy bumpers. Not sure they have that much value other than fun for the dog and maybe going in front of gun rather than backsiding. Just my opinion and I'm not doing that well this year at trials or hunt tests.

Walking singles give the dog confidence..you can vary the exercise by having your help walk away once they throw the bumper. This will make a dog concentrate on the fall of the bumper. Good drill if your dog likes to run on the gunner. You can also have your help "retire" behind an umbrella.

Joyce